I just added the IR remote for my projector. Unfortunately it only works if I point it directly to the Projektor. With the original remote I can point everywhere in the room and the projektor will receive the signal. This will for sure mess up any sequence if I the remote needs to be held in an specific angle backwards to work. Is there es setting to increase IR range?
If there is, I am not sure how to do this.
Like you, I am struggling with the weak signal, especially on a Sky Stream box in the UK - made even worse when the room is filled with sunlight as this seems to make the IR signal even less reliable.
I am hoping for news this week about the IR extender as without that I am not sure the remote (alone) will work for me…
https://www.kincony.com/kc868-ag-iot-ir-controller.html
We found this project, which we are making work with RS90. Wait for more news next week.
ok, but what about the build in IR? It is quite essential for a remote, don’t you think? Especially considering the price point.
The issue is most IR commands work on the RS90 3GB with long range. We have been using it since January in rooms that are larger, like 20 feet (bedroom) and 16 feet (home theater). We had an issue only controlling the Panasonic AC and Xbox, which were working only when bringing the RS90 very close to them. Rest devices like Apple TV, Epson projector, Denon AVR, Yamaha AVR, and Hitachi AC were working just fine. We did not see any difference in comparison to actual IR remotes. So it is hard to tell for us that the range of RS90 is limited. Even the factory tests every remote for a 5-meter range. Beyond this, you need extenders, of course.
I can also add to the point that we are the only few of the smart remote currently on the market with onboard infrared blasting that is working. Why do others omit having IR on the remote and keep it on the dock or hub? There is a technical reason.
Perhaps there is a reason for that…
OEM just sent us this video upon our discussion of the issue with the IR blaster. Range looks ok here. So the issue is more to do with the IR file or frequency used.
This kind of IR extender can be used to extend the range of RS90.
If you already have the appropriate hardware, you can use it without having to purchase anything else. I personally use a Homey Pro to send IR signals via the RS90. Homey is supported by the RS90, so I can trigger a flow.
In another room, I use the existing IR Trans WLAN, which is controlled by the RS90 via a custom URL command and an HTTP request.
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I found another solution. I am turning the projektor on and off using pjlink via lan with homeassistant. But I’m sorry to say, that the IR performance is weak compared to the original remote and my old Logitech Harmony.
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Same here for a Sharp TV, not reachable from my TV seat.
Original remote, Philips Pronto, Harmony remote ans cheapo universal remote are perfectly ok from the same location.
This is a no-go and the Haptique cannot be used.
Same here.
Sadly, I have given up using the RS90 as it just doesn’t work at its core function of being an IR remote. I shouldn’t need to find workarounds or buy additional third party add ons to make an (expensive) remote work as a remote. I have had cheap <£15 ‘One For All’ IR remotes work perfectly well so I know the hardware is available and is not expensive.
Such a shame as I had high hopes…
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I placed a ticket about that in suport.haptique.io.
The answer I got is not available any more" ( Application error: a client-side exception has occurred (see the browser console for more information)".
In brief I was told that some configurations had a week IR signal and that the solution was using an IR extender.
What a shame !
We never had this issue of IR being weak when we were testing & developing RS90 1GB also literally no one out of 100s of RS90 1GB users reported this to us. Now few users are reporting this. How can we change the hardware now? The time has passed when we were doing beta testing. Now this is what it is we cannot change it. So we advise to use IR extender if it doesn’t workout for you. There is no shame in accepting that and we cannot please everyone.I personally use Panasonic TV from 12 feet in my bedroom without an issue.
I can confirm that the IR signal is too weak to activate my JVC Projector unless i am within a foot of the IR Sensor. I can use other remotes from 50 feet away, so there does appear to be a hardware problem. This is an extremely common projector in USA Theatre rooms, probably the most popular brand, so I’m surprised this wasn’t tested.
This does make me wonder where the IR Extender I ordered with the remote is?
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Well, using an IR extender 2 meters away of the remote is for sure a strange solution for a high-end remote…
I wish I could use my remote from any place in the room, not in a so closed circle.
Are you really sure this is a hardware problem, as only a few devices seem to be affected ?
I can understand that testing every configuration is just impossible, but I wish you could have a look at the IR parameters of the devices with problems, as many cheapo universal remotes do make the job.
I think it is (mostly) hardware as when I was using my remote, with a Sky Stream box, it was so sensitive to direction that if I used the remote with the ‘buttons’ end horizontal - meaning the screen and IR transmitter end was pointing slightly up at an angle - no IR signal was received.
However, if I tilted the remote so that the screen was perfectly horizontal - meaning the buttons end instead was angled slightly up - then an IR signal was received!
This was just too frustrating to use.
It almost seemed like the IR signal was being sent purely from the front of the remote, instead of being also send ‘downwards’ as I would have expected given the plastic IR cover should allow for this.
Hope that makes sense?!
Further to the above, perhaps there is a batch with a manufacturing issue where the IR transmitter has been ‘misplaced’?
It is definetly worse than ALL other remotes i have. Only works if pointed absolutely straight to the device from max 3m away. All others remotes can be pointed anywhere in the room and still work just fine. If what you say is true and none of this showed in your testing I must assume that I got a faulty unit. I guess you could send me another one to confirm that theory?
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I would be happy to test a ‘working’ unit as well. (And send back my faulty unit for you to test)